My First Week in Costa Rica: What Lived Up to the Hype (and What Surprised Me)

View of Arenal Volcano rising above the Costa Rican rainforest beneath dramatic clouds near La Fortuna.
Arenal Volcano quickly became the symbol of my first week in Costa Rica. Surrounded by lush rainforest, waterfalls, and abundant wildlife, it set the tone for a destination that more than lived up to its reputation.

Previously: Before arriving in Costa Rica, I thought Panama would simply be the stopover before the “main event.” Instead, it completely changed my expectations. In If I Went Back to Panama, Here’s How I’d Plan My Trip, I shared why Panama deserves to be the destination, not just the gateway. Now it’s time for the country I had been looking forward to most.


Out of every country on our three-week Central America itinerary, Costa Rica was the one I was most excited to visit.

It felt like the country everyone had been to. Friends talked about ziplining through the rainforest, spotting sloths in the wild, relaxing in natural hot springs, and hiking around volcanoes. If someone had traveled through Central America before, chances were Costa Rica was at the top of their list.

Thankfully, it lived up to the hype.

But it also surprised me in ways I wasn’t expecting.


Arriving in La Fortuna

After a few days exploring Panama City, we caught a short morning flight to San José before continuing on to La Fortuna, home to the iconic Arenal Volcano.

As we arrived at our hotel, Hotel Arenal Rabfer, the receptionist smiled and immediately commented on how lucky we were. After several days of rain, Arenal had finally emerged from the clouds, and the volcano stood perfectly clear behind the property.

We couldn’t have asked for a better welcome to Costa Rica.

Standing outside our room with that incredible view instantly reminded me why this country is famous for its landscapes.


First Impressions

One thing I noticed almost immediately was how different La Fortuna felt from what I had imagined.

The town itself is relatively small and relaxed, with local restaurants, cafés, souvenir shops, and tour operators lining the streets. It doesn’t feel like a massive tourist hub, which I actually appreciated.

Our hotel was about a ten-minute walk from the main plaza, giving us easy access to dinner without feeling like we were staying in the middle of everything.

That slower pace ended up setting the tone for our first afternoon.

Instead of trying to squeeze another activity into the day, we found a great lunch spot only a few minutes from our hotel, admired the volcano, and simply settled into vacation mode.

Looking back, I wouldn’t have wanted to start the trip any other way.


The Meal I Couldn’t Stop Ordering

A pattern that had started in Panama continued into Costa Rica.

Fresh fried fish.

Rice.

Black beans.

Simple ingredients, but incredibly satisfying after a day of traveling.

It was so good that we went back again the following night, and over the next week I found myself ordering some variation of that meal almost everywhere we traveled through Central America.

Sometimes the meals you remember most aren’t the fancy ones, they’re the ones you keep craving long after you’ve returned home.

View of Arenal Volcano from the hot springs in La Fortuna, Costa Rica.

Relaxing in La Fortuna’s natural hot springs with Arenal Volcano in the background was the perfect way to end an active day. Whether you choose a luxury resort or a more affordable option, it’s one of the area’s signature experiences.

Ending the Day at the Hot Springs

No visit to La Fortuna feels complete without spending an afternoon in one of the area’s famous thermal hot springs.

Originally, we had hoped to visit Tabacón Thermal Resort & Spa, arguably the most famous hot springs resort in Costa Rica. By the time we decided where we wanted to go, however, day passes had already sold out.

Instead, we booked The Springs Resort & Spa, and honestly, I don’t think we missed out on anything.

The property was absolutely stunning. With beautifully landscaped thermal pools, lush tropical gardens, and incredible views toward Arenal Volcano, it felt like a destination in its own right. If your budget allows, I can absolutely see why so many people choose to stay here. At nearly $1,000 per night during our visit, though, we were more than happy purchasing a day pass instead.

One thing I discovered while planning the trip is that La Fortuna has a hot springs option for almost every traveler and budget. Some resorts lean toward luxury and couples, others are better suited for families with larger pools and water slides, and there are even more affordable options if you’re simply looking to enjoy the thermal waters without the resort price tag.

After lunch, we grabbed an Uber and spent the rest of the evening soaking in naturally heated pools surrounded by tropical gardens with Arenal Volcano towering in the background.

One thing I really appreciated was that the property wasn’t just a collection of pools. Small walking paths wound through the rainforest, leading to quieter thermal pools tucked away among the trees. It felt peaceful, uncrowded, and exactly how I imagined Costa Rica.

Many of the hot springs include admission for two consecutive days, and if I were planning the trip again, I’d absolutely take advantage of that. I’d even consider adding an extra night in La Fortuna. We loved our first evening at the hot springs, but after a full day of hiking and adventure activities, we were simply too tired to go back the following night. Looking back, one extra day would have been well worth it.

It ended up being one of my favorite experiences in La Fortuna.

From La Fortuna Waterfall to rainforest hanging bridges, this was the day that matched every image I had imagined of Costa Rica. Lush forests, dramatic waterfalls, and abundant wildlife made it easy to understand why the country’s natural beauty is so celebrated.

Waterfalls, Hanging Bridges, and Rainforest Views

Our next full day was exactly what I had pictured when I imagined Costa Rica.

We started at La Fortuna Waterfall, where more than 500 steps lead down to one of the country’s most beautiful waterfalls.

The climb back up definitely gets your heart pumping, but standing at the base of the falls made every step worth it. If you’re planning to visit, I’d definitely bring a swimsuit. Plenty of people were swimming beneath the waterfall, while we were more than happy walking down toward the rocks, taking in the view, and enjoying the refreshing mist rolling off the falls. One thing that surprised me was how well maintained the trail was. Before the trip, I’d read several comments making the hike sound much more intimidating, but the wooden stairway is in excellent condition and was easier than I expected.

From there, we continued to the Mistico Hanging Bridges.

If you’re hoping to spot wildlife, I’d highly recommend booking a guided walk. Our guide noticed animals we would have walked right past, from colorful birds hidden high in the trees to monkeys moving effortlessly through the canopy. They also turned out to be excellent photographers, helping us capture some fantastic photos along the way and even sharing many of the pictures they took during the tour.

Suspended high above the rainforest floor, they gave us a completely different perspective of the forest, with sweeping views across the canopy and the chance to look into the treetops rather than up from below. Walking from bridge to bridge, stopping whenever our guide spotted another animal, ended up being one of the most peaceful parts of our time in La Fortuna.


Monteverde After Dark

After La Fortuna, we made our way to Monteverde. We would be spending two nights at Cabinas el Pueblo B&B Monteverde, nothing fancy, the pictures do not lie, it was a very basic accommodation.

One thing we noticed almost immediately was that getting around was a little different than La Fortuna. Ubers weren’t nearly as easy to find, so the following morning our hotel called us a taxi.

Another guest happened to be heading to the same place, so we shared the ride. What started as a simple way to split the fare turned into one of those unexpected travel moments. We spent the drive chatting, got along really well, and made plans to meet back up for dinner later that evening.

That night, we joined one of Monteverde’s famous wildlife tours.

I’ll admit it, I wouldn’t consider myself much of an animal enthusiast. I enjoy seeing wildlife when I travel, but it’s rarely the reason I choose a destination.

Even so, I’d book this tour again in a heartbeat.

Not because of the animals.

Although spotting frogs, tarantulas, snakes, sleeping birds, glowing insects, and even a kinkajou was certainly memorable, what I remember most happened every time we stepped out from beneath the dense forest canopy.

Above us was one of the clearest night skies I’ve ever seen.

Far away from city lights, the stars seemed endless. I found myself looking up every chance I got, wishing I could simply sit there for another hour taking it all in.

For me, those quiet moments beneath the stars ended up being even more memorable than the wildlife itself.

Ziplining through the Monteverde cloud forest in Costa Rica.

Not every memorable travel day has to be shared from start to finish. While my friend relaxed on the ground, I checked ziplining off my Costa Rica bucket list before we reunited for the rest of the day’s adventures.

Sometimes the Best Travel Days Don’t Look the Same

One thing I appreciated about traveling with a friend was that we didn’t feel like we had to spend every minute together.

She isn’t a fan of heights, while ziplining was something I had been looking forward to before we even arrived in Costa Rica.

Instead of compromising, we each spent the afternoon doing something we’d genuinely enjoy.

She booked a coffee tour.

I headed into the rainforest.

That evening we met back up for dinner with our new travel friend from the taxi ride, along with another traveler my friend had met during the coffee tour. It was the perfect ending to what had already become one of my favorite days of the trip.

It reminded me that traveling together doesn’t always mean doing everything together.


Flying Through the Rainforest

I had only been ziplining once before at an adventure park in North Carolina.

I’ll be honest, I wasn’t exactly fearless.

After that first push off the platform, though, I absolutely loved it.

So when Costa Rica gave me the chance to glide through an actual rainforest, there was no way I was passing it up.

Standing on the first platform, I still felt those familiar nerves.

Then came the countdown.

One step.

One push.

And suddenly I was flying above the rainforest canopy.

The course included nearly a dozen ziplines, starting with shorter, more approachable rides before gradually building up to longer and faster glides across the valley. It was the perfect progression, giving me just enough time to get comfortable before the longest lines at the end.

Most of the ziplines were ridden solo, but two of them paired us up with another rider. Those actually ended up being my favorites. Sitting together in a more natural, relaxed position made it easier to stop thinking about the height and simply enjoy soaring over the rainforest. Instead of focusing on the adrenaline, I found myself taking in the incredible views stretching across the canopy.

It was everything I had imagined, and more.

By the final line, I couldn’t believe the course was already over.

If there was ever a place to go ziplining, Costa Rica felt like it. It’s one of those experiences I’d happily do again.

Finishing our Costa Rica trip with a free night at the Waldorf Astoria reminded me that the occasional splurge can be worth it. After several active days, slowing down by the Pacific Ocean felt like the perfect ending to the adventure.

Ending Our Trip with a Splurge

After several days of volcanoes, waterfalls, cloud forests, and early mornings, we decided to finish our Costa Rica adventure with one night somewhere completely different.

This was the splurge of the trip.

Using one of my Hilton Free Night Rewards, we booked a stay at the Waldorf Astoria Costa Rica Punta Cacique, perched on a hillside overlooking Playa Penca and the Pacific Ocean. It was a fun reminder that points aren’t just for airport hotels or city stays—they can also unlock luxury experiences that might otherwise feel out of reach.

Our stay lasted less than 24 hours, but that was entirely by design.

After a week spent chasing waterfalls, hiking volcanoes, walking through cloud forests, spotting wildlife, and constantly moving between destinations, we wanted one day where the itinerary disappeared.

We spent the afternoon moving between the resort’s pools, claimed bean bags overlooking Playa Penca as the sun began to set, wandered the beautifully landscaped grounds, and simply enjoyed having nowhere we needed to be.

The next morning, I woke up to sweeping views of the Pacific. There was no alarm, no shuttle to catch, and no sightseeing checklist waiting for us, just one last opportunity to slow down and reflect on everything we’d experienced before continuing on to Nicaragua.

Looking back, I wouldn’t change a thing.

For most of the trip, we stayed in smaller locally owned hotels that kept us close to Costa Rica’s adventures. Saving our one luxury stay for the very end made it feel like a reward rather than the expectation. If you’re using points or a free night certificate, I’d seriously consider doing the same. There’s something incredibly satisfying about ending an adventure with one last chance to slow down before heading home, or, in my case, continuing on to the next country.


My Biggest Takeaway

Costa Rica absolutely lived up to everything I had imagined.

The volcanoes were impressive.

The rainforests felt alive.

The wildlife seemed to appear around every corner.

And every day somehow ended with another incredible view.

More than anything, though, this trip felt like the perfect introduction to the country.

In just one week, I experienced volcanoes, hanging bridges, waterfalls, hot springs, cloud forests, ziplining, incredible wildlife, and the Pacific coast. It gave me a great overview of what makes Costa Rica so special while also showing me just how much more there is to explore.

I left already thinking about a return trip, not because I felt like I had missed out, but because I found myself wanting to experience these places again while also discovering entirely new parts of the country.

Sometimes the places everyone recommends really do live up to the hype.

Costa Rica did exactly that, and it left me with every reason to come back.


Up next: After spending a week exploring Costa Rica, I realized there are a few things I’d change, and a lot I wouldn’t. In If I Planned Costa Rica Again, Here’s Exactly How I’d Do It, I’ll share how I’d build a Costa Rica itinerary today, including how much time I’d spend in each region and where I’d focus on a return visit.

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