My First Week in Costa Rica: What Lived Up to the Hype (and What Surprised Me)

This post is part of my Central America series, following a three-week trip through Panama, Costa Rica, Nicaragua and El Salvador. I share what we did, how I handled transportation and planning, and what I’d do differently next time. You’ll find related guides in the Explore Central America section at the end.

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Costa Rica was the country I had the highest expectations for on our three-week Central America trip. Friends’ stories had given me a fairly ambitious wish list: ziplining above the rainforest, seeing wildlife with a guide who knew where to look, and soaking in hot springs with a volcano in the background. I wanted to know whether a week there could possibly live up to the picture I’d built in my head.

Our route through La Fortuna, Monteverde and the Pacific coast delivered many of those experiences, but the moments I remember weren’t always the ones I’d anticipated. A night wildlife walk became a chance to admire an extraordinary sky, an afternoon apart from my travel companion let us each enjoy something different, and a Hilton Free Night Reward gave us a quiet finish after several active days.

That combination made Costa Rica such a satisfying first visit. We had the adventures I’d hoped for, alongside a clearer sense of where I would have welcomed more time to slow down.

Arriving in La Fortuna With a Clear View of Arenal Volcano

After a few days exploring Panama City, we caught a morning flight to San José before continuing on to La Fortuna, the town that would be our base for exploring the Arenal area.

Arenal isn’t Costa Rica’s only volcano or its tallest, but its almost perfectly conical shape makes it especially striking. Rising roughly 1,633 meters above sea level, it forms the dramatic backdrop to many of the photographs that first put La Fortuna on a traveler’s wish list. Costa Rica’s tallest volcano, Irazú, stands considerably higher at 3,432 meters.

Arenal also has a history that goes beyond its appearance. Following a major eruption in 1968, it remained regularly active for decades before entering a quieter phase in 2010. The old lava flows are part of the landscape visitors come to explore today, alongside the surrounding forests and views toward Lake Arenal.

Of course, having a volcano nearby doesn’t guarantee you’ll actually see it. When we arrived at Hotel Arenal Rabfer, the receptionist immediately told us how lucky we were. After several rainy days, the clouds had finally cleared, revealing Arenal behind the property.

Standing outside our room with that unobstructed view felt like a particularly good introduction to Costa Rica. We hadn’t even headed out on our first excursion, and already one of the landscapes I’d been most excited to see was right there in front of us.

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Staying Near Downtown La Fortuna Made Settling In Easy

For somewhere so closely associated with Costa Rica’s biggest adventures, La Fortuna felt surprisingly manageable. The center was compact, with restaurants, cafés, souvenir shops and tour agencies clustered around the central park and Catholic church. There were also practical essentials such as supermarkets, pharmacies and ATMs within walking distance, making it easy to pick up what you needed between excursions.

Downtown itself doesn’t need a packed sightseeing itinerary. Its appeal for me was having somewhere easy to wander, choose a restaurant and settle in before heading out to the waterfalls, hot springs and rainforest that had brought us here.

Our hotel was about a ten-minute walk from the main plaza, which suited us well. We could walk to dinner without arranging transportation, while still enjoying a quieter setting and that incredible view of Arenal. For a trip without a rental car, being able to handle the everyday parts on foot made a real difference.

That convenience set the tone for our first afternoon. Rather than squeeze in another excursion after the journey from Panama, we found a lunch spot a few minutes from the hotel, admired the volcano and gave ourselves time to arrive properly. There would be plenty of activity over the next few days, and I was happy to begin with an unhurried meal and nowhere else we needed to be.

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Eating in La Fortuna: The Simple Meal I Kept Coming Back To

At Panama City’s seafood market, I’d found a meal I was happy to keep ordering: fried fish with rice and black beans. Arriving in La Fortuna, I was delighted to see that familiar combination on the menu. After a morning of traveling between countries, it was exactly what I wanted for lunch.

In Costa Rica, that combination often appears as a casado, a traditional plate of rice, beans, a protein such as fish or chicken, and sides that might include salad, vegetables or fried plantains. The accompaniments vary, but it’s a useful dish to recognize when you’re looking for a filling local meal.

Rice and beans appear throughout Costa Rican cooking, although they don’t always arrive in the same form. At breakfast, you’ll often see gallo pinto, with the rice and beans mixed together. On the Caribbean coast, coconut milk gives the region’s rice and beans a different character, alongside dishes such as rondón, a seafood and coconut stew. Our route didn’t take us to that coast, but it’s a reminder that there’s more regional variety than one familiar plate might suggest.

For this trip, though, I’d found something I genuinely looked forward to eating. We enjoyed our lunch in La Fortuna enough to return the following night, and I continued ordering variations of it as we traveled through Central America. What started as a memorable lunch in Panama became a small, welcome connection between the places we visited, even as the landscapes and activities changed around us.

Relaxing in La Fortuna’s natural hot springs with Arenal Volcano in the background was the perfect way to end an active day. Whether you choose a luxury resort or a more affordable option, it’s one of the area’s signature experiences.

La Fortuna Hot Springs: Our Evening at The Springs Resort

No visit to La Fortuna feels complete without spending an afternoon in one of the area’s famous thermal hot springs.

Originally, we had hoped to visit Tabacón Thermal Resort & Spa, arguably the most famous hot springs resort in Costa Rica. By the time we decided where we wanted to go, however, day passes had already sold out.

Instead, we booked The Springs Resort & Spa, and honestly, I don’t think we missed out on anything.

The property was absolutely stunning. With beautifully landscaped thermal pools, lush tropical gardens, and incredible views toward Arenal Volcano, it felt like a destination in its own right. If your budget allows, I can absolutely see why so many people choose to stay here. At nearly $1,000 per night during our visit, though, we were more than happy purchasing a day pass instead.

One thing I discovered while planning the trip is that La Fortuna has a hot springs option for almost every traveler and budget. Some resorts lean toward luxury and couples, others are better suited for families with larger pools and water slides, and there are even more affordable options if you’re simply looking to enjoy the thermal waters without the resort price tag.

After lunch, we grabbed an Uber and spent the rest of the evening soaking in naturally heated pools surrounded by tropical gardens with Arenal Volcano towering in the background.

One thing I really appreciated was that the property wasn’t just a collection of pools. Small walking paths wound through the rainforest, leading to quieter thermal pools tucked away among the trees. It felt peaceful, uncrowded, and exactly how I imagined Costa Rica.

Many of the hot springs include admission for two consecutive days, and if I were planning the trip again, I’d absolutely take advantage of that. I’d even consider adding an extra night in La Fortuna. We loved our first evening at the hot springs, but after a full day of hiking and adventure activities, we were simply too tired to go back the following night. Looking back, one extra day would have been well worth it.

It ended up being one of my favorite experiences in La Fortuna.

From La Fortuna Waterfall to rainforest hanging bridges, this was the day that matched every image I had imagined of Costa Rica. Lush forests, dramatic waterfalls, and abundant wildlife made it easy to understand why the country’s natural beauty is so celebrated.

La Fortuna Waterfall and Mistico Hanging Bridges: A Day in the Rainforest

Our next full day was exactly what I had pictured when I imagined Costa Rica.

We started at La Fortuna Waterfall, where more than 500 steps lead down to one of the country’s most beautiful waterfalls.

The climb back up definitely gets your heart pumping, but standing at the base of the falls made every step worth it. If you’re planning to visit, I’d definitely bring a swimsuit. Plenty of people were swimming beneath the waterfall, while we were more than happy walking down toward the rocks, taking in the view, and enjoying the refreshing mist rolling off the falls. One thing that surprised me was how well maintained the trail was. Before the trip, I’d read several comments making the hike sound much more intimidating, but the wooden stairway is in excellent condition and was easier than I expected.

From there, we continued to the Mistico Hanging Bridges.

If you’re hoping to spot wildlife, I’d highly recommend booking a guided walk. Our guide noticed animals we would have walked right past, from colorful birds hidden high in the trees to monkeys moving effortlessly through the canopy. They also turned out to be excellent photographers, helping us capture some fantastic photos along the way and even sharing many of the pictures they took during the tour.

Suspended high above the rainforest floor, they gave us a completely different perspective of the forest, with sweeping views across the canopy and the chance to look into the treetops rather than up from below. Walking from bridge to bridge, stopping whenever our guide spotted another animal, ended up being one of the most peaceful parts of our time in La Fortuna.

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Monteverde’s Night Wildlife Tour: Come for the Animals, Stay for the Stars

After La Fortuna, we made our way to Monteverde. We would be spending two nights at Cabinas el Pueblo B&B Monteverde, nothing fancy, the pictures do not lie, it was a very basic accommodation.

One thing we noticed almost immediately was that getting around was a little different than La Fortuna. Ubers weren’t nearly as easy to find, so the following morning our hotel called us a taxi.

Another guest happened to be heading to the same place, so we shared the ride. What started as a simple way to split the fare turned into one of those unexpected travel moments. We spent the drive chatting, got along really well, and made plans to meet back up for dinner later that evening.

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But the real highlight of Monteverde came after dark.

That night, we joined one of Monteverde’s famous wildlife tours. I’ll admit, I wouldn’t consider myself much of an animal enthusiast. I enjoy seeing wildlife when I travel, but it’s rarely the reason I choose a destination.

Even so, I’d book this tour again in a heartbeat—and not necessarily because of the animals.

We spotted frogs, tarantulas, snakes, sleeping birds, glowing insects, and even a kinkajou, but what I remember most happened every time we stepped out from beneath the dense forest canopy.

Above us was one of the clearest night skies I’ve ever seen. Far away from city lights, the stars seemed endless, and I found myself looking up every chance I got, wishing I could simply sit there for another hour taking it all in.

For me, those quiet moments beneath the stars ended up being even more memorable than the wildlife itself.

Not every memorable travel day has to be shared from start to finish. While my friend relaxed on the ground, I checked ziplining off my Costa Rica bucket list before we reunited for the rest of the day’s adventures.

Traveling With a Friend Doesn’t Mean Doing Every Activity Together

One thing I appreciated about traveling with my friend was that we could be honest about what interested us without feeling obligated to match each other’s enthusiasm. She isn’t a fan of heights, while ziplining was something I’d been looking forward to before we even arrived in Costa Rica. Sharing an itinerary didn’t mean she needed to spend an afternoon uncomfortable or that I needed to skip an experience I was excited about.

We didn’t need to find one activity we could both agree on when there were two we’d each enjoy. She booked a coffee tour, and I headed off to zipline above the rainforest. Monteverde gave us room to have different afternoons while still sharing the larger trip.

That evening, we reunited for dinner with the traveler we’d met during our taxi ride, along with someone my friend had met on her coffee tour. Our separate plans had given us new stories to exchange and another person to share the evening with. It became one of my favorite days of the trip, even though we’d spent part of it apart.

For me, that’s something worth discussing before traveling with a friend: are you both comfortable doing things independently when your interests differ? Having that flexibility made it easier to enjoy our time together without asking either of us to give up something we wanted to do.

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Ziplining in Monteverde: The Adventure I Wasn’t Going to Skip

I had only been ziplining once before, at an adventure park in North Carolina, and I’ll admit I wasn’t exactly fearless. But after that first push off the platform, I absolutely loved it. So when Costa Rica gave me the chance to glide through an actual rainforest, there was no way I was passing it up.

Standing on the first platform, I still felt those familiar nerves. Then came the countdown, one step, one push, and suddenly I was flying above the rainforest canopy.

The course included nearly a dozen ziplines, starting with shorter, more approachable rides before gradually building up to longer and faster glides across the valley. It was the perfect progression, giving me just enough time to get comfortable before the longest lines at the end.

Most of the ziplines were ridden solo, but two of them paired us up with another rider. Those actually ended up being my favorites. Sitting together in a more natural, relaxed position made it easier to stop thinking about the height and simply enjoy soaring over the rainforest. Instead of focusing on the adrenaline, I found myself taking in the incredible views stretching across the canopy.

It was everything I had imagined, and more. By the final line, I couldn’t believe the course was already over.

If there was ever a place to go ziplining, Costa Rica felt like it. It’s one of those experiences I’d happily do again.

Finishing our Costa Rica trip with a free night at the Waldorf Astoria reminded me that the occasional splurge can be worth it. After several active days, slowing down by the Pacific Ocean felt like the perfect ending to the adventure.

Waldorf Astoria Costa Rica: Using a Hilton Free Night for Our Final Stay

After several days of volcanoes, waterfalls, cloud forests, and early mornings, we decided to finish our Costa Rica adventure with one night somewhere completely different.

This was the splurge of the trip.

Using one of my Hilton Free Night Rewards, we booked a stay at the Waldorf Astoria Costa Rica Punta Cacique, perched on a hillside overlooking Playa Penca and the Pacific Ocean. It was a fun reminder that points aren’t just for airport hotels or city stays—they can also unlock luxury experiences that might otherwise feel out of reach.

Our stay lasted less than 24 hours, but that was entirely by design.

After a week spent chasing waterfalls, hiking volcanoes, walking through cloud forests, spotting wildlife, and constantly moving between destinations, we wanted one day where the itinerary disappeared.

We spent the afternoon moving between the resort’s pools, claimed bean bags overlooking Playa Penca as the sun began to set, wandered the beautifully landscaped grounds, and simply enjoyed having nowhere we needed to be.

The next morning, I woke up to sweeping views of the Pacific. There was no alarm, no shuttle to catch, and no sightseeing checklist waiting for us, just one last opportunity to slow down and reflect on everything we’d experienced before continuing on to Nicaragua.

Looking back, I wouldn’t change a thing.

For most of the trip, we stayed in smaller locally owned hotels that kept us close to Costa Rica’s adventures. Saving our one luxury stay for the very end made it feel like a reward rather than the expectation. If you’re using points or a free night certificate, I’d seriously consider doing the same. There’s something incredibly satisfying about ending an adventure with one last chance to slow down before heading home, or, in my case, continuing on to the next country.

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Was One Week in Costa Rica Enough for a First Visit?

Costa Rica absolutely lived up to everything I had imagined. The volcanoes were impressive, the rainforests felt alive, wildlife seemed to appear around every corner, and every day somehow ended with another incredible view.

More than anything, though, this trip felt like the perfect introduction to the country. In just one week, I experienced volcanoes, hanging bridges, waterfalls, hot springs, cloud forests, ziplining, incredible wildlife, and the Pacific coast. It gave me a great overview of what makes Costa Rica so special while also showing me just how much more there is to explore.

I left already thinking about a return trip, not because I felt like I had missed out, but because I wanted to experience some of these places again while also discovering entirely new parts of the country.

Sometimes the places everyone recommends really do live up to the hype. Costa Rica did exactly that, and it left me with every reason to come back.