I Almost Turned Around at the Girona Train Station
If you’re just joining my Spain series, I recommend starting with Why Madrid Surprised Me, where I explain why the capital exceeded my expectations. This article picks up as we leave Madrid behind and make our way toward Costa Brava.
Ten minutes after arriving in Girona, I was ready to throw in the towel.
In my head, I was already rehearsing the conversation with my family.
“Let’s just go back to the station. We’ll catch the next bus and head straight to Tossa de Mar.”
At that moment, Girona felt like a huge mistake.
Looking back now, I’m very glad I didn’t follow through.
Why We Added Girona to Our Spain Itinerary
The simplest option would have been taking the train from Madrid to Barcelona and then catching a direct bus to Tossa de Mar.
But where’s the fun in that?
Instead, I chose the more complicated route.
During my research, Girona kept appearing over and over again. Photos of its medieval streets, colorful riverside buildings, impressive cathedral, and ancient city walls made it look exactly like the type of place I love exploring.
Since we were already traveling from Madrid, I figured we could stop in Girona for five or six hours, explore the city, and then continue onward to Tossa de Mar.
On paper, it sounded perfect.
It also had the added benefit of simplifying the second half of our trip. After Tossa de Mar, our next stop would be Barcelona, which meant our onward journey would be a simple one-hour bus ride instead of backtracking through multiple connections.
Things Started Going Wrong Immediately
Our day started early with a train from Madrid-Puerta de Atocha-Almudena Grandes station to Barcelona Sants.
The high-speed train ride was smooth, comfortable, and arrived right on schedule. From Barcelona, we boarded a regional train to Girona, which took less than an hour.
The problems began as soon as we arrived.
My transportation research had suggested there were direct buses from Girona to Tossa de Mar. When I stopped at the bus ticket counter to confirm schedules, I learned we would actually need to transfer in Lloret de Mar.
Not ideal, but manageable.
Then came the luggage situation.
I had been under the impression that luggage storage was available inside the train station. Instead, after asking multiple station employees, I kept receiving different directions.
“No luggage storage here.”
“It’s somewhere across the street.”
“Try asking over there.”
Now picture four carry-on suitcases, four backpacks, temperatures approaching 30°C (85°F), and a family wondering why we’re wandering around Girona dragging luggage instead of sightseeing.
That was the moment I started questioning my decision.
Eventually, after walking into several businesses and asking for help, we discovered that Girona’s luggage storage was operated through a third-party luggage storage app. After downloading the app on the spot and paying roughly €50 to store our bags, we were finally free to explore.
By then, however, my confidence in this stop had taken a serious hit.
Lunch Saved the Day
Before attempting any sightseeing, we needed a reset.
We made our way to Plaça de la Independència, one of Girona’s most recognizable squares, and settled into lunch at Casa Marieta.
The timing could not have been better.
After an early morning, several trains, luggage frustrations, and the heat, it was exactly what we needed. We spent some time enjoying lunch, air conditioning, and simply decompressing before attempting to tackle the rest of the city.
Sometimes the best travel decision is sitting down for an hour and regrouping.
The Girona I Came to See
After lunch, we began walking toward Girona’s historic center.
Almost immediately, the city started changing.
The modern buildings around the train station gave way to narrow streets, stone buildings, medieval walls, art galleries, and souvenir shops.
This was the Girona I had spent weeks looking at online.
The further we walked, the more excited I became.
Eventually, we arrived at the magnificent staircase leading up to the Cathedral of Girona.
Even if you’ve never heard of Girona before, you’ve probably seen this staircase in photographs. The cathedral dominates the skyline, and the wide stone staircase leading to its entrance is one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks.
We spent quite a while exploring the surrounding streets, taking photos, browsing shops, and enjoying the atmosphere. At one point, we even had to stop and find my mom a lighter shirt after realizing her long sleeves weren’t going to survive the afternoon heat.
The Cathedral Detour That Wasn’t Supposed to Happen
Originally, I had no intention of visiting the cathedral itself.
Then someone opened the door.
A blast of cool air escaped into the afternoon heat.
Suddenly the entire family agreed that maybe visiting the cathedral wasn’t such a bad idea after all.
What started as an attempt to escape the heat ended up becoming one of the highlights of the day.
Inside, the Cathedral of Girona was beautiful. The soaring interior, historic artifacts, cloisters, treasury exhibits, and peaceful atmosphere offered a welcome contrast to the busy streets outside. There was even a small exhibit explaining the famous Creation Tapestry, one of the cathedral’s most important treasures.
We spent about 45 minutes exploring before heading back into the sunshine.
It turned out to be one of the best spontaneous decisions of the trip.
Walking the Medieval Walls
For me, however, the main attraction was still waiting.
The Passeig de la Muralla.
Girona’s medieval walls date back to Roman times and were expanded throughout the Middle Ages. Today, visitors can walk roughly 2.5 to 3 kilometers (about 1.5 to 2 miles) along various sections of the walls, making it one of the most unique ways to experience the city.
Walking the entire accessible route would probably take around 45 minutes to an hour if you kept moving, but realistically most visitors spend much longer stopping at viewpoints and taking photos.
As we climbed the first set of stairs and emerged onto the walls, I immediately knew this stop had been worth it.
From above, we could see red rooftops stretching across the city, church towers rising in the distance, and sections of the walls extending far beyond where we stood.
What I particularly loved was how accessible the experience felt.
You don’t need to commit to walking the entire route. There are multiple entrances and exits along the walls, allowing you to explore as much or as little as you like.
We probably spent 20 to 30 minutes walking different sections, stopping constantly for photos and views.
If I had to choose one experience in Girona, this would be it.
The Moment I Changed My Mind
As we made our way back through the Old Town and crossed the bridges over the Onyar River, I realized something.
My mistake hadn’t been stopping in Girona.
My mistake had been not staying longer.
If I hadn’t been traveling with family and trying to minimize hotel changes, I would have seriously considered spending a night here.
The more I walked, the more I found myself imagining what Girona must look like in the evening. The sunlight reflecting off the colorful riverside buildings. The quieter streets after the day-trippers leave. The opportunity to slowly explore the walls without watching the clock.
Looking back, I think Girona suffers from being treated as a day trip. It’s easy to squeeze into a Costa Brava itinerary, but the city feels like it deserves a slower pace than a few rushed hours between buses.
Girona felt like the kind of place that rewards slowing down, it ended up being one of the highlights of our journey between Madrid and Tossa de Mar, a stretch of the trip that ultimately introduced us to the Costa Brava.
Final Thoughts
By the end of the day, everyone in our group was surprised by how much we enjoyed Girona.
What started as one of the most frustrating travel mornings of our Spain trip ended up becoming one of our favorite unexpected stops.
Would I recommend stopping for a few hours on your way to the Costa Brava?
Absolutely.
But if your itinerary allows it, I’d go one step further.
Spend the night.
Walk the walls at your own pace. Wander through the Old Town after dinner. Sit along the Onyar River and watch the city change as the sun goes down.
Ten minutes after arriving, I wanted to leave.
A few hours later, I wished I had booked an extra night.
Sometimes the places you almost skip become the ones you remember most. Girona was only the beginning of our time on the Costa Brava.
Next up in the Spain series: Looking for Beaches Near Barcelona? Why I Loved Tossa de Mar.