Looking for Beaches Near Barcelona? Why I Loved Tossa de Mar

If you’ve been following my Spain series, you’ve already seen how we made our way to Costa Brava through Girona. This article is about the place that ultimately became my favorite stop of the entire trip: Tossa de Mar.

If you’re thinking about visiting the Costa Brava, book the trip.

If you’re thinking about visiting Tossa de Mar, keep reading only if you’re ready to be convinced it’s the vacation you didn’t know you needed.

One evening was all it took.

Before I had even spent a full day exploring, I was already imagining what a week here would look like. Slow mornings. Walks along the cliffs. Long lunches overlooking the sea. A book I might actually finish. The kind of trip where the goal isn’t to see more, but to do less.

In a world where so many vacations leave us needing another vacation afterward, Tossa de Mar felt different.

In fact, after returning home, I found myself comparing the experience to another coastal destination I love. You can read that comparison in Amalfi Coast vs Costa Brava: Which One Should You Visit?

The Beach Vacation Dynamic We Didn’t Know We Needed

The truth is, I’m the difficult one when it comes to beach vacations.

I enjoy the beach, but after a few hours I’m usually ready to walk somewhere, photograph something, or explore a nearby town. That’s why places like Tossa de Mar work so well for our family.

Throughout the day, everyone naturally found something they enjoyed. My dad and I loved wandering through the medieval streets of the old town and walking along the castle walls for the views. My mom enjoyed browsing the beachside shops and taking photos. My sister, meanwhile, was perfectly content spending hours swimming in the Mediterranean and relaxing on the beach.

What made Tossa special was that nobody felt like they were compromising. The beach wasn’t the only attraction, but it was always there whenever we wanted to return to it. The old town, restaurants, shops, coastal walks, and viewpoints were all within easy reach, creating the perfect balance between relaxation and exploration.

Tossa de Mar isn’t just a beach destination.

It’s a beach town with enough personality, history, and charm that everyone can enjoy it differently.

The Water Really Is That Beautiful

I knew the photos of Costa Brava looked incredible.

Nothing prepared me for seeing the water in person.

Standing at the shoreline, I could see the rocky bottom several meters away, even after walking into deeper water. The Mediterranean shifted between turquoise, emerald, and deep blue depending on the angle of the sun. At times, the anchored boats appeared to be floating in midair because the water was so clear.

The water is definitely cold when you first step in.

But with the Mediterranean sun overhead, it quickly becomes one of the most refreshing swims imaginable.

Unlike sandy beaches where waves constantly stir up sediment, the rocky coastline helps keep the water remarkably clear. It was the kind of place that makes you put your phone down for a moment and simply take it all in.

Why We Loved Staying in Tossa de Mar

We stayed at Hotel Delfín, and the location couldn’t have been better.

Within minutes we could walk to Platja Gran, the medieval old town of Vila Vella, dozens of restaurants, and the shopping streets. Even arriving by bus was easy, we walked from the station with our luggage in about six minutes.

After spending the day exploring Girona, we were more than ready to freshen up and start enjoying Tossa de Mar. Being able to walk straight from the bus station to the hotel made the transition effortless.

Traveling with my parents, having the ability to return to the hotel throughout the day made a huge difference. Tossa de Mar isn’t the type of destination where you’re necessarily out exploring from sunrise until bedtime every day. If you’re spending several days here, you’ll likely want the option to return to your hotel, cool off, shower after the beach, relax by the pool, or simply take a break from the sun before heading back out for dinner.

Speaking of the pool, I loved Hotel Delfín’s setup. It wasn’t designed for swimming laps. Instead, the gently sloped design made it perfect for lounging in the water while enjoying the sunshine. More pools should be designed like this.

What I also appreciated was the absence of large international hotel chains. As someone who enjoys collecting travel points, I usually gravitate toward Marriott or Hilton properties. But in smaller European beach towns like Tossa, the lack of major chains often works in the destination’s favor.

Instead, you’ll find independent hotels, family-run properties, and accommodations across a wide range of price points. The result is a town that still feels local rather than dominated by large resorts.

Don’t Skip the Medieval Walls

If you’re visiting Tossa de Mar, the Vila Vella is non-negotiable.

The fortified old town is one of the best-preserved medieval seaside towns in Spain, and walking its walls quickly became one of my favorite activities.

Go early in the morning if you want quieter views.

Go again in the evening if you want to watch the sun begin to drop over the Mediterranean.

We ended up doing both.

The views over the cliffs, beaches, and coastline are worth every step.

What We Ate

One of the things I enjoyed most about Tossa de Mar was how easy it was to settle into a rhythm.

On our first evening, we headed to Da Giovanni. We weren’t looking for a big meal, just something casual after arriving, but it ended up being the perfect introduction to the town. We also kicked off what would become the drink of the trip: sangria made with cava. Lighter, crisper, and less sweet than traditional sangria, it quickly became a favorite. Alongside a buffalo mozzarella pizza and a plate of small fried fish—a dish that seemed to appear on nearly every menu in town—it was exactly the relaxed welcome dinner we needed. The short walk there along the coastline at night only added to the excitement of the days ahead.

During our longest beach day, after renting four beach chairs and an umbrella for €42, we grabbed a quick lunch near the beach. Honestly, it was forgettable, proving that not every meal on vacation needs to be memorable.

Dinner that evening, however, was a different story.

La Placeta ended up being one of our favorite meals of the trip. Sitting beside the medieval walls, we shared grilled octopus, a seafood rice dish, a mixed grilled seafood platter, and a pitcher of sangria. The portions were generous, the setting was beautiful, and it was one of those dinners where nobody wanted to leave the table.

On our final full day, after returning from Cala Giverola and spending a few hours enjoying the hotel pool, we barely made the cutoff for the last lunch seating at Maritim Tossa. If you’re visiting, keep in mind that many restaurants close around 3 p.m. and don’t reopen until 7 or even 8 p.m. We ordered the catch of the day and enjoyed one last leisurely meal overlooking the water. It was one of the more expensive meals of the trip, but it felt like the perfect way to end our stay.

My favorite discovery, though, wasn’t a restaurant at all.

It was a popsicle.

You’ll find plenty of gelato shops throughout town, but the chocolate-covered mango popsicle from Ice Cream by Don Juan was irresistible. I had four of them during our three-day stay.

Not that I was counting.

Take the Boat to Cala Giverola

On our second full day, we booked one of the glass-bottom boat excursions.

For roughly €20 per person, the boat explores caves along the coastline before stopping at Cala Giverola, with return boats operating approximately every hour.

My advice?

Take the first boat of the day.

Pack your towel.

Get off at Cala Giverola.

While Platja Gran is beautiful, Cala Giverola felt quieter, smaller, and more relaxed. The water was every bit as clear, and the surrounding cliffs created an even more secluded atmosphere.

It’s hard to choose between two beautiful beaches, but I actually preferred Cala Giverola. The smaller shoreline felt more intimate, and because the rocky section was shorter than at Platja Gran, I found myself going in and out of the water much more often throughout the day.

It ended up being one of my favorite experiences of the trip.

Who Tossa de Mar Is Perfect For

Tossa de Mar is perfect for travelers who want a beach vacation without feeling like the beach is the only thing to do.

If you’re happiest alternating between beach time, scenic walks, great meals, and exploring charming towns, it’s hard to imagine a better fit.

If you’re looking for nonstop nightlife or a luxury-resort experience, there are probably better choices elsewhere along the Mediterranean.

Final Thoughts

What surprised me most was just how beautiful it was.

Tossa de Mar has completely spoiled me.

My bar for beautiful water is now unreasonably high, and for the foreseeable future I’ll probably find myself comparing every beach to Tossa. Is the water clearer? Is it more beautiful? Does it have the same combination of cliffs, turquoise water, and medieval history sitting right beside the beach?

That’s a difficult standard to live up to.

I loved Tossa de Mar.

What surprised me most wasn’t how quickly I fell in love with the town—it was how quickly I wanted to come back.

Five minutes in Lloret de Mar during a bus transfer had already made me curious about Costa Brava. A few days in Tossa only deepened that curiosity.

How many more beaches were there?

How many more coastal towns?

How much of this region had I barely scratched the surface of?

With its proximity to Barcelona, a trip to Costa Brava is almost too easy.

And that’s probably the highest compliment I can give Tossa de Mar.

I came expecting a pleasant beach town.

I left wondering how soon I could return and spend an entire week doing almost nothing at all.

After three days, I wanted a week.

After a week, I suspect I still wouldn’t have been ready to leave.

Tossa de Mar reminded me that some of my favorite travel memories come from balancing cities with slower coastal destinations. That contrast became even more obvious once we reached Barcelona.

Next up in the Spain series: Barcelona Didn’t Capture Me the Way Madrid Did (And That’s Okay).