Why I Stopped in Graz Instead of Going Straight to Slovenia

This post is part of my Central Europe series, following my travels through Poland, Slovakia, Austria, Slovenia, Croatia, and Bosnia and Herzegovina, from historic capitals and unexpected city stops to lakes, coastal towns, and the journeys connecting them. Throughout the series, I share what surprised me, which places deserved more time, and what I’d do differently on a return trip. You’ll find more guides in the Continue Exploring Central Europe section at the end.

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One of my favorite parts of independent travel is the freedom to adjust plans as I go. Not dramatically, just enough to make a trip a little easier, a little more enjoyable, or occasionally a little more interesting.

That’s exactly how Graz ended up on my itinerary.

After spending a few days in Slovakia, my next major destination was Slovenia. Going directly from Bratislava to Ljubljana would have meant another long travel day and, depending on the route, potentially another overnight journey. By that point, I was already feeling the effects of moving every few days, so instead of pushing through, I opened a map and started looking for alternatives.

That’s when I found Graz.

While I had already visited Vienna on a previous trip, this journey was less about revisiting favorites and more about exploring places I’d never been. Graz checked every box: the train connections worked perfectly, the city looked easy to explore on foot, and it gave me the chance to experience a different side of Austria.

Sometimes that’s all the justification I need.

A Convenient Stop

One of the things I appreciated most about Graz was how easy everything felt.

After arriving from Bratislava, I checked into a small hotel just a few minutes from the train station. Within a short time, I was already walking toward the historic center without having to worry about complicated transit, navigating a sprawling city, or figuring out how to get from one attraction to the next.

For a one-night stop, that’s exactly what I was looking for.

A short walk from the train station brought me into Graz’s historic center, proving that even an overnight stop can leave a lasting impression.

First Impressions

If Vienna feels grand and imperial, Graz feels approachable.

The historic center is compact, walkable, and easy to explore without much planning. As I wandered through the city, I found myself moving between Hauptplatz, Herrengasse, Graz Town Hall, the Landhaus Courtyard, Graz Cathedral, and countless historic streets and alleyways.

Graz’s UNESCO-listed Old Town is beautiful, but what stood out most wasn’t any single landmark. It was how relaxed the city felt. There were tourists, just not many, and for a city of its size, Graz felt surprisingly under the radar.

Whether you climb the hill, take the funicular, or ride the elevator, Schlossberg rewards you with some of the best views in Graz.

The Highlight: Schlossberg

If there’s one attraction I would tell visitors not to skip, it’s Schlossberg.

Rising above the city, Schlossberg offers panoramic views of the Old Town, the Mur River, and the surrounding hills. You can reach the top by funicular, elevator, or on foot. It’s also home to Graz’s most recognizable landmark, the Uhrturm, or Clock Tower.

Looking back, this was easily my favorite part of the city. Not because it was the most dramatic attraction, but because it gave me exactly what I enjoy most while traveling: the chance to slow down, take in the surroundings, and appreciate where I was.

By the time I was ready to head back down, dark clouds had rolled in and rain was starting to fall, so I opted for the elevator instead of walking. One unexpected surprise was discovering that the elevator runs alongside Schlossberg’s underground slide, allowing you to watch sections of it twist through the hill as you descend.

I didn’t ride the slide myself, but if you’re looking for a more adventurous way back down, it’s certainly one of the more unique attractions you’ll find in Austria.

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Old Meets New

One thing I wasn’t expecting was how naturally modern architecture blended into Graz’s historic center.

After leaving Schlossberg, I wandered toward the river, where two of the city’s most recognizable contemporary landmarks sit just a short walk apart. Murinsel, a floating steel structure that serves as both a pedestrian crossing and café, contrasts sharply with the historic buildings surrounding it, while Kunsthaus Graz—nicknamed the “Friendly Alien” because of its distinctive shape, looks unlike anything else in the city.

Neither attraction takes long to visit, but together they offer an interesting reminder that Graz isn’t just a city defined by its history.

After a full afternoon exploring Graz, a quiet walk along the Mur River felt like the perfect way to end my only day in the city.

The Reality of Long-Term Travel

One thing I don’t always talk about in these travel posts is that after a couple of weeks on the road, your favorite moments often become surprisingly ordinary.

By the time I reached Graz, I’d already spent days exploring Poland and Slovakia, with more train rides, cities, and countries still ahead of me.

That evening, instead of searching for another attraction, I ordered far too much pizza and breadsticks and relaxed in my hotel room. After several busy days exploring Poland and Slovakia, a quiet night was exactly what I needed.

Was Graz Worth It?

Graz was absolutely worth the stop. I wouldn’t plan an entire Austria trip around it, but if you’re traveling between Vienna, Bratislava, Ljubljana, or Zagreb, I’d consider whether it fits naturally into your route.

The city was easy to explore, the Old Town was beautiful, and Schlossberg offered fantastic views. Just as importantly, staying overnight broke up a long travel stretch and gave me time to enjoy somewhere new instead of spending the entire day getting to my next destination.

Not every stop needs to be the highlight of a trip to be worthwhile. Graz made the journey better, and looking back, that’s exactly what I needed it to do.